Paris Color

Myrna at the mercerie

There may be more than 50

shades of grey in Paris

but color (and camaraderie) abounds as well.

cafe smiles from Bobbie, Yvette and Jan

brousing buttons with Myrna, Elaine and Marcy

We've been doing lots of shopping

for fabric and notions,

clothing and accessories

(plus shoes of course),

in various hues, patterns, textures and styles.

Such fun shopping Paris,

sharing and wearing

our finds with each other.

blotter paper from hand painting silk flower petals

Watching a silk flower being created

from start to finish

is mesmerizing
and amazing.

tiny hand made silk flowers

 The French are very proud

of their fine craftsmanship --

and well they should be.

Hermes window in yellows

Hermes window in reds

Then there's Hermes --

whose windows are always gorgeous

bright and beautiful!

But for me 

nothing compares to Giverny.

pink leaves, red berries

I am always left

a bit breathless

by the colors of Autumn.

on the path

reflections

 

boats and bamboo

So much beauty,

water, greenery, respite 

and tranquility

even when filled with people.

Paris rainbow

Rainbows appeared over Paris,

sometimes double as this one

(viewed from inside the bus)

peeking in and out of the trees

as we rode along the Seine.

sunset

After the rainbow

a stunning sunset

to light our way home.
(or off to more shopping...)

Paris in Perspective

Morning in the Tuilleries

Groups of French firefighters and police

run through the Tuilleries in the early morning

adding to the ambience and allure

of this beautiful (and momentarily) uncrowded expanse.

Square des Missions Étrangers

Chateaubriand's head graces this small square,

one of the many welcome bits of green

that provide respite and nature

as I wander through Paris.

 

 

 

 

Non-wandering gnomes

This creative window garden

made me smile.

Passage du Chantier

Small Passages offer a taste

of Paris before Haussmann

and never cease to charm.

Café life.

Sartorial splendor

brightens a day.

Inside out at Marithé + François Girbaud

Meticulous finishing creates

a garment that is as beautiful on the inside

as it is on the outside.

 

Reminder to self...

 

Price: €11,950 (about $17,000 at today's rate)

 I love the shade of yellow

but how could one carry this purse

when a family of four could be 

fed for a year instead?

 

Not that it's in my 'wants' or my budget anyway...

Send in the psychiatrist please

Beauty

in the eye of the viewer.

 

Paris

offering new views.

 

 

Vue de Paris

Palais Royale

Into the Palais Royal

Le Jardin de Palais Royale

The weather in Paris 

has been magnificent this past week.

Sunny, 

gorgeous clouds,

minor bits of rain

and warm temperatures.

The warmth of summer lingers.

Chez Serge Gainsbourg

Grafitti continues to evolve

at Serge's house

where the entrance has been modified

no doubt in preparation for the day

it opens as a museum.

Louvre

I love the peeks into the Louvre

that are so full of light

in comparison to the dark passages 

one is passing through.

Marcy at Marly

Cafe Marly is not known for its

nourriture gastronome 

but the view is wonderful,

ambiance  exceptionnel

and the company always

au-dessus du dessus.

Especially lovely

with the warm weather.

 

These two darling women

are part of a Japanese dance troupe.

At the Louvre

Cello music led us into this passage.

More of the magic of Paris.

Tips of the Trade

Part of the fun of sewing for me is figuring things out.

After doing things a certain way

for a long time

I notice I feel 'bored'

and like to change things around.

This can make things challenging

when I'm trying to write pattern directions

(for instance)

and have to commit

to just one way of doing something

and a certain order of doing it.

Hmm, maybe I don't like to be tied down...

Make rules,

break rules,

love rules,

hate rules. 

(Love does rule though...)

As I plan a pattern,

choose the fabrics,

cut the pieces out,

and stitch things together,

many ideas move through the mind.

Some stick and some don't;

some work and some don't.

I thought I would share a few of my favorite tricks

that you may or may not know about

that I've been using in my latest projects.

Some of these I learned from other sewers;

some I figured out myself (as I know you have);

all, I find helpful.

1. Press hems in place 

when the fabric pieces are still flat.

Sleeves especially, as they can be such a pain

when trying to turn them under evenly in the round.

Even if the press line doesn't match up perfectly

when you get the sleeve put together

it's easier to straighten it out 

than to try to do the whole job from scratch.

 

pressing hem while fabric is flat using a cardboard template

2. Use a cardboard template as a guide when pressing hems.

This simple 1" strip

cut from a file folder or cereal box

makes pressing hems so much easier.

Actually I've amassed a collection of different widths

but the 1" is what I seem to use most often.

3. When tucking a thick seam under,

trim a small concave curve from the thickest part on the edge.

This takes out just enough thickness

to allow the seam to sit flatter.

Works well when wrapping a thick seam 

in a neckband or folding a fat seam in a hem. 

(Note: I did check the internet to find a correct/understandable 
definition for a concave and a convex curve
and thanks to those who corrected me
when I still got it wrong...)

Essentially you are cutting a little curved piece

out of the top of the seam

in the seam allowance.

Curved Kai scissors are perfect for this.

trim out a 'fat' seam

4. Make an easy 'double' buttonhole for 2 small buttons

by first making one large buttonhole

and then putting a tack in the middle.

Measure the two buttons together 

with a small space in between to determine buttonhole length.

Stabilize with Fray Check 

and then cut each hole separately.

This works for three little buttons too.

tacking the center of a long buttonhole to make two

5. Finish a serged seam 

by tucking the 'tail' threads back into the end of the seam.
Use a big yarn needle

to work the serged tail back under the seam loops.

This holds everything in place for a neat seam finish

with no hanging or fraying tails.

tucking in a serger 'tail'

Feel free to share your favorite tips

in the comment section.

Click here to link to some cutting edge clothing happenings:

3-D garments -- New Skins

Gamers creating electronic clothing
(giving new meaning to 'play clothes')

Happy stitching!

Preparing for Paris or My Take on Marcy's Core Wardrobe

Preparing for Paris

requires many levels of planning:

hotel reservations,

restaurant reservations,

museum tickets,

transportation arrangements

and the most challenging question of all --

what to wear?

I always take a morning

at least a week before departure

when I dress in my best undergarments

and get ready for a try-on.

This year I started by removing

all the lightweight/summer items from my closet first.

I have to admit that I did very little culling in the moment.

I just stored them away

("I'll think about that tomorrow...").

Then I carried the best of everything left 

up the stairs and into Marcy's studio

where she had her clothing hanging on a rack.

We try everything on.

Marcy is my other eye,

the first being the mirror.

She is uncanny in her ability to see

what works and what doesn't.

There are always those items

that go together easily for 

the big YES.

And of course those that scream out 

the definite NO.

Some things I thought were 'for sure' ensembles

did not work together at all.

Favorite items I love, 

that don't really go with anything 

must be eliminated.

Then there are the holes

that need to be filled.

This is why the try on must occur early,

so there is time to sew up a couple of new things.

Paris in October or May

has a broad temperature range

requiring layers.

 Marcy's 9 piece Core Wardrobe

 provides the perfect structure to work with.

Black is my color of choice

as it always works 

(especially in Paris where it tends to be grimy)

and can be 'popped'

with colorful accessories.

1. The coat to go over everything.

Definitely my new pattern, Butterick 5960 

in black of course.

I did hand paint the lining...

Butterick 5960

This is a classic, throw-over-everything,

make it dressy or casual,

lined or unlined,

belted or not,

wear-for-20-years coat.

It will be carried on the plane 

and double as my 'banky'.

My mind is playing with how to

finesse a denim version for spring

and my country living life style.

We're not talking Ralph Lauren country here...

2. The pant to wear with everything.

These days I'm liking 

the look of a slim pant 

so it's Butterick 5961.

Butterick 5961

I have versions of this pant

in knit and woven, black of course --

because it works with everything,

is comfortable and quite flattering.

Plus it keeps things simple for me.

3. Knit tops, t-shirts or shell (for Paris and everyday).

Butterick 5925, 

the top from Butterick 5961

and  

Vogue 8793

(with multiple collar iterations)

are what I'm wearing now.

If all the tops have a touch of black

in the print then everything goes.

Butterick 5961

 The square set arm on B5961

adds a little style and I like making it 

in a texture that can provide a warm layer

over V8793 or B5925.

 

Butterick 5925

 I've eliminated the pockets

on both versions of B5925

to give a sleeker line when I want to layer

a jacket over the top.

Black Parisian is the perfect fabric

as it has a beautiful drape

and feels great next to my skin.

I have more than one shirt 

made from these patterns, in this fabric

going to Paris with me!

4. & 5. Distinctive jacket and/or shirt.

Butterick 5891 is one pattern

I've made over and over to wear 

as a shirt and a jacket.

I like it in a soft stretch woven or firm knit.

I also like Sandra Betzina's

Vogue 1036

which certainly works as this year's

trendy 'moto' jacket.

Vogue 1036

6. A vest that upgrades any outfit.

Marcy's Vogue 8430 made as a vest

is still an all time favorite

layering piece of mine.

Vogue 8430

Vogue 8777

As is Vogue 8777 

or Butterick 5891.

Simple or complicated, 

a versatile vest always adds chic

in addition to warmth.

Both Marcy and I have new vest patterns

coming out that we have been

stitching and wearing

so stay tuned.

7. & 8. Modern Cardigan and Skirt.

For me, cardigans are a little like most skirts --

when I put one on

I age 20 years and gain 20 pounds.

The only skirt I ever put on is 

long, straight and black.

Vogue 8837

is that skirt.

The pant in this pattern is great too;

a slim fit (with or without cuff) and the pattern pieces

offer options for fabric play.

Vogue 8837

9. Dress.

I love Marcy's Vogue 8876

 and

Vogue 8904 

as well as Butterick 5559.

Vogue 8876

Vogue 8904

Butterick 5559

Those diagonal lines are quite flattering.

My Paris wardrobe now consists of:

A long black coat and a raincoat;

3 pairs of black pants, including a black jean;

7 t-shirt tops and/or tunics;

4 jacket/shirts;

2 vests;

A dress in black and purple;

3 pairs of shoes;

Plus a bunch of scarves for color, warmth and style.

It is Paris after all...

This is where I am right now.

I never know what is going to sneak in

or out as departure nears.

The packing diva is a fickle goddess

and she has her favorites.

And yes, no skirts or cardigans 

have made it into the mix

yet.

See Marcy's Core Wardrobe picks in her  

latest Newsletter.

~~~

Watch for my new dress coming out

in the Butterick Holiday/Spring Preview 2013/14 edition.

~~~

Now taking registration for ParisTilton

in the Springtime

May 10 - 17, 2014

and

Beyond the Arty T: Expanding the Creative Envelope

June 27, 28 and 29, 2014

in Minneapolis