Lengthening Butterick 6106

Since my last blog

about making some jacket/shirts

from Butterick 6106

I've received several questions 

about lengthening it.

Here are the answers.

butterick 6106 in monet's garden 'denim'

Yes, I did lengthen the pattern for my blog versions.

No, I did not use the 'lengthen here' lines

as shown on the paper pattern pieces.

Why?

Well, I didn't have the Butterick version

of the pattern yet, I had my own

(which by the way has no seam allowances).

 

Know that I have the pattern before Butterick does

but it doesn't look the same as what you purchase.

From the time I send Butterick the size 10 samples

to be photographed, it takes about 9 months

for the pattern to come out.

top left front showing 1-1/2" of added length

left front and left side back showing 3" of added length

I looked at my pattern 

and made an educated decision 

about where to best lengthen it

to get the 3 more inches I wanted.

Given the number and shapes of the front pattern pieces

it seemed like too much to add in just one place.

Since I couldn't see adding at the hem

I basically chose two places where I could add 1-1/2"

while still maintaining the integrity

of the jacket/shirt's lines.

right front with 1-1/2" added in two places

It was fairly simple but like any pattern alterations

the details take some time.

I've opened the now released pattern envelope 

of Butterick 6106 and looked at all the pieces.

The 'lengthen here' lines are all good to go

so you don't have to reinvent the wheel like I did.

adjusting the seamline with a curved ruler

If you want more than 2" of length added

feel free to copy what I did.

I think you can figure it out from the photos.

Remember it's not brain surgery,

what you are about to attempt

is mostly common sense.

I've just done some of the thinking for you.

All fabrics used for my work are from

MarcyTilton.com

Because the samples go to Butterick

so far ahead of time

often the fabric used in those samples is gone

by the time the pattern comes out.

(At the time of this blog

'Monet's Garden' and 'Versaille' stretch denim

are still available. If you can't find them on

Marcy's website, then they are sold out.)

But there's always more fabric.

New pieces are posted almost every day.

Have fun and send me photos please!

Babe and Jean (or Variations on Butterick 6106)

butterick 6106 in plaid

 

 There are some wonderful plaids

available these days

in fabrics and ready-to-wear.

When I saw this bold plaid 

in grey and black I was hooked.

Sometimes I'm attracted to a fabric 

and it sits on the shelf

waiting for inspiration.

In this case the inspiration was right there.

No escape.

The moment I'd finished

the sample I was playing with I was on it.

with front collar open

Since I was going for a Babe* look

I knew I wanted to do something different

with the plaid -- more than just matching.

Butterick 6106 seemed right

for the challenge.

back butterick 6106

 Planning how to cut out something like this

takes some forethought.

I knew I wanted to mix it up

and I also knew

I wanted to match things up.

I started with the matching up.

 

side back cut at an angle

 The back is always a good place to start

as you won't have to look at mistakes 

(if there are any).

Originally I cut the back with the plaid

matching all the way across.

After I completed the two fronts

I decided that one of the side backs

needed to be cut at an angle.

Since this fabric was woven and then brushed

it was quite stable 

so I didn't have to worry about stretching

if I cut off grain.

Which I did a lot of...

 

left front plaid matching

I decided to match plaids on one side of the front.

I chose the most complicated side to manuver

but I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.

I love how the bold black line

zigs and zags down the front.

front facing detail

 

All pattern pieces were cut out one at a time

moving from the shoulder to the hem;

back, left front, right front, back revised.

Decisions about how to design/cut the next piece in line

were made one at a time 

after studying the plaid and the pattern piece.

An organic process,

allowing each design decision 

to lead to the next.

fold back sleeve detail

The plaid fabric was too thick to use for facings

so I chose a lighter weight fabric.

The contrast fabric definitely 

takes the jacket up a notch.

* Plaids always seem to remind me of Paul Bunyan.

Paul had a sidekick named Babe

(never mind that she is a blue ox).

 Hence I call this my Babe jacket.

butterick 6106 jean jacket

I made the same jacket in a 'denim'

digitally printed from the image 

of a well loved jean jacket.

front button detail

I was able to utilize the fabric print

to my advantage.

Fun to be able to top the visual buttonholes

with real ones

and manage to find buttons 

that mimic those found on the real deal.

back view jean jacket

I call these 'jackets' but often

I wear them like a shirt

as well as layering them

over T's.

Can't wait to make another one!

 

Some Tips for Butterick 6106 Jacket/Shirt

butterick 6106 in versaille jacquard denim

I love to play with fabric combinations,

and I'm always trying to make it easier.
Hence patterns where the combinations
are already done for you.

pattern pieces puzzled out before stitching

After cutting all the pieces out,
keeping the pattern piece with the fabric,
I put everything together
to simplify the sewing/matching notches process.
Often I stitch the smaller pieces
to the larger first,
always thinking ahead
as to how I'm going to finish the seams
and what needs to be done next.

press before stitching

For this little piece and the one it's attached to,

it's best to press the 'hemmed' edges

before you stitch them together.

finish seam before you go on

Here you can see I serged the edge

before going any further.

all ready for hem finish later

The hems are stitched in place

once the jacket is fully assembled.

mostly assembled jacket

I always like to do 

a final design check

to make sure I still like what I'm making.

Note that the contrast bias strip

on the curve of the hem

will only be seen from the inside.

auditioning buttons

Buttons need to be checked out too.

This particular jacket seemed to call for a variety.

Which means the buttonholes

need to be different sizes.

curved edge detail

Many sweet details make this jacket/shirt

very fun and easy to wear.

This version pieced of Japanese cotton

utilizes buttons in pairs down the front.

avoiding bulk in the hem

To eliminate some of the bulk in the hem

I have a little trick I like to do.

I serge the seams to clean them up

and keep the fabric from fraying.

But I keep the seams that will be 

hidden in the hem 

open and flat.

When the fabric is turned over on itself and pressed

the serged end is hidden in the turn-over

and the flat open seam creates less bulk.

how to deal with that little pointed 'corner'

Where there are 'flares' or extra fabric

in the hem I draw a mirror image

of the angle with chalk

and stitch on that line,

trimming the excess off 

and pressing the seam flat.

 

fold over hem 'point'

This keeps the hem flat

and the corner tidy.

butterick 6106 in monet's garden stretch cotton

All the fabrics I use in my patterns
are from MarcyTilton.com
and if the exact fabrics
shown on the pattern envelope
are no longer available
we are sure to have something
equal to or better than
to satisfy your creative wishes.

butterick 6106 line drawing

Happy sewing!

Crusing the Big City

times square

Returning to New York City

after a long hiatus is great fun!

I loved the visit

and appreciate the fact that I live in the country...

 

The best part is naturally the people.

Eating and hanging out with family and friends,

catching up, laughing, learning what's new.

 mannequins in the hallway

A visit to McCall's

provided a look behind the scenes

and a chance to meet the talented women and men

who make my patterns possible.

one of the workrooms

They are sewers just like us.

They work really hard at their jobs,

would like more time to sew,

and seemed as happy to meet us as we were to meet them!

marcy in the mccall archives

makeup area for the photo shoots

vogue pattern magazine mock up featuring a new pattern

Such a gift to now have 'faces' and spaces

for the place that completes all the work on my patterns.

After our McCalls visit

we walked to the 911 Memorial.

Unlike many other crowded 'tourist' areas in NYC

the energy here was serene and respectful.

911 memorial waterfall and pool

 Names of the deceased 

surround the high waterfalls 

that fill the two pools,

that fit the footprints of the towers.

 

In the center

water disappears into an abyss.

Fitting metaphor for sorrow,

loss and love.

 

Powerful

Emotional.

Compassionate.

Moving.

Neverending.

 

A privilege to experience.

Many other experiences happened as well.

surrounded by fabric

We shopped for fabric every day

and found some amazing pieces

(for all of our pleasure).

Cherry picking the best of the best

for MarcyTilton.com.

And trust me,

after shoping NYC for fabric,

MarcyTilton.com has the best!

with madeline and marcy on the high line

Took a lovely walk on the High Line

where the green and the calm

belie its location

in the midst of the city.

at the charles james' exhibit

The Charles James Exhibition

was extraordinary.

What a mind created these garments!

 

How lucky we are to be able to see

inside and outside 

with the aid of cameras.

 

wonderful quotes surround the work

intelligent words

 

 The quotes that surround the work

provide a hint into the brilliant workings 

of James' mind.

 

madeline toasting at blue hill nyc

 

The finest meal I've ever eaten

was at Blue Hill New York.

 

Delicious, fresh, surprising,

perfectly prepared

and paired with wine,

the courses went on and on,

delighting the palate,

and pleasing the eye.

Outstanding in every way

and perfectly served.

Ahh... What a joy!

Spoiling me for anything else.