To make this t-shirt for Spring I decided to lower the neck and shorten the sleeves to 3/4. Blue was the colorway of choice.
Blue Dot, version 1.3 I cut without making any actual notations on the pattern. The fabric I choose for the front had an amazing selvedge which I wanted to use. Loved the hand, it washed beautifully but ended up having no recovery. A challenge. By taping the zipper to the straight collar edge (using Wonder Tape which is double sided and washes away) before sewing I avoided major stitching and stretching problems there.
The third time was the charm with the front on this version. (Fortunately I stayed calm and went with the flow...)
The first front I cut was too short and the hem stretched horribly when I stitched it down even tho I had pressed it, fused it in place and used a walking foot.
For the second try I cut the lower part of the original off and added a longer double layer with the fold at the hem for extra weight hoping to eliminate the stretching problem. No dice - still too short and the fabric stretched again (so much for knit finesse). Yikes.
The final solution was to use a different fabric that had more recovery and stability. The edge was left raw so stitching wouldn't be an issue. To deal with the slight roll on the edge I painted it. I used my favored 'Riffle' screen with black paint (hardly visible in the photo) which mimicked the stripe and 'Circle Game' for some white and blue textured orbs.
Water for Chocolate, version 1.4 was a piece of cake. This time I made a new pattern piece, lowered the neck 2-1/2", added a 1" dart (which admittedly had to be moved three times), lowered the hem 1" at the side and 2" in the front.
There was a lot to learn making these two t-shirts. Primarily that it is easier to problem solve a solution that to beat myself up for not getting it right the first time. I like version 1.3 better than the other two. A curve happened when I sewed the seam and it softens the line across the front. The black paint works when I wear it with black jeans.
To make it work the first time the next time I choose a fabric like this I will cut the piece double, with darts and more length. But then I rarely like to do the same thing twice...
Namaste,
Katherine
Blue Dot, version 1.3 I cut without making any actual notations on the pattern. The fabric I choose for the front had an amazing selvedge which I wanted to use. Loved the hand, it washed beautifully but ended up having no recovery. A challenge. By taping the zipper to the straight collar edge (using Wonder Tape which is double sided and washes away) before sewing I avoided major stitching and stretching problems there.
The third time was the charm with the front on this version. (Fortunately I stayed calm and went with the flow...)
The first front I cut was too short and the hem stretched horribly when I stitched it down even tho I had pressed it, fused it in place and used a walking foot.
For the second try I cut the lower part of the original off and added a longer double layer with the fold at the hem for extra weight hoping to eliminate the stretching problem. No dice - still too short and the fabric stretched again (so much for knit finesse). Yikes.
The final solution was to use a different fabric that had more recovery and stability. The edge was left raw so stitching wouldn't be an issue. To deal with the slight roll on the edge I painted it. I used my favored 'Riffle' screen with black paint (hardly visible in the photo) which mimicked the stripe and 'Circle Game' for some white and blue textured orbs.
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| Blue Dot 1.3 |
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| Blue Dot 1.3 Collar |
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| Water for Chocolate 1.4 Collar |
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| Water for Chocolate 1.4 |
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| Pattern Changes |
Water for Chocolate, version 1.4 was a piece of cake. This time I made a new pattern piece, lowered the neck 2-1/2", added a 1" dart (which admittedly had to be moved three times), lowered the hem 1" at the side and 2" in the front.
There was a lot to learn making these two t-shirts. Primarily that it is easier to problem solve a solution that to beat myself up for not getting it right the first time. I like version 1.3 better than the other two. A curve happened when I sewed the seam and it softens the line across the front. The black paint works when I wear it with black jeans.
To make it work the first time the next time I choose a fabric like this I will cut the piece double, with darts and more length. But then I rarely like to do the same thing twice...
Namaste,
Katherine
Katherine, thank you for the detailed photos and information regarding your process with these tops. I started working with this pattern yesterday. I went through several possible fabric combinations, finally settled on something today, cut it out, and now I'm not so sure. I'm using the violet crumble (black dots) from Marcy last summer, with a black and silver stripe and a Ralph Lauren black floral lace. It's the stripe that doesn't seem to be "me". Just too bold, I think. Now my plan is to replace the strip with a painted black solid, then decide if I want the lace or something else. It seems nothing is relating to the violet color. Maybe I'll head that way with the paint.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who is having trouble placing bust darts. I drafted and sewed two short ones on one side, but they're not long enough, so I need to work on that.
It all is a process that requires patience and persistence, for sure! It's fun to be sewing this pattern. I just finished your knit vest using the black grande mesh Marcy had a year or two ago. It's really cool; I can't wait to make it in a ponte. Happy sewing, from the east coast to the left!
I love the lower collar and using the paint to get the right colour was great.
ReplyDelete