Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Butterick 5891 Revisited


B5891 Version B 
Although it looks like it, a simple sleeveless shirt, 
it’s not.
(Frankly describing any pattern with 15 pieces
as ‘easy’ seems a stretch.)

This vest/top appears to be causing problems
for some sewers.
Admittedly, it is more difficult than it might look
but if you can sew a straight line you'll be fine. 

Asymmetry
             is just that.
                                                       More coMplicAteD.     

Some of the 15 pattern pieces have been known to stretch
so stay-stitching is helpful.
(As I had no problem with this I’m guessing
it might have something to do with the fabric used.)
Be sure to keep those pattern pieces handy
so you know what is what and where it goes.


Remember, 
you have to be smart to sew.

Butterick 5891

Note that the underside (‘wrong’ side/back side) of the fabric
is going to show when either the vest/top or jacket/shirt
are open at the neck. 
Be forewarned so you can plan ahead.

I have made versions of this pattern
so many times 
that I feared perhaps I had lost sight of 
what might cause a problem 
for someone making it for the first time.
So, I made it again,
with as much innocence as I could muster.

Discharged a lovely black stretch Poplin,
'Blackbird', from marcytilton.com.

‘Honeycomb’ and ‘Veil’ silkscreens with Jacquard discharge paste on 'Blackbird' poplin
I used the pattern pieces
straight from the envelope
and cut it out exactly as instructed.
(Be sure the readable side of the pattern piece is
'right' side up on the fabric when you cut.)
Then, I followed the directions
for stitching it together step by step,
doing my best to forget anything I knew before 
(which is not so difficult these days ).

All the pieces fit together
perfectly
like an easy puzzle.

The only pattern change I made
was to make the pocket a bit smaller on the lower edge.
I like to tack the pocket down at a spot on the peplum
where it won't show so it doesn't flop.


At step #23, I finished the lower edge of the collar
before I stitched it down.
I pressed the collar 'hem' to the 'right' side of the collar
so that edge would be finished as it is visible
when the vest/shirt collar is open.

B5891 Version C
Someone contacted me with concerns about
the rather acute concave curve
on the jacket/shirt collar.
I have made this jacket/shirt version in
linen, denim and some other heavyweight wovens
navigating this curve with no problem. 

You must be bold with your iron.

Stay-stitch the edge
just inside the seam line and press. 
Use a clapper with the iron if necessary to flatten.
Then fold it under again, back in on itself and topstitch.
See illustration #15 in C/D version pattern directions.


Please don't let any of this keep you
from making this great vest/top
and/or the versatile shirt/jacket.
You will love it and wear it all Summer.


Happy stitching!

18 comments:

  1. You are right about the pieces fitting together. It's like a very cool puzzle and I enjoyed fitting the pieces together. I did notice that the dart/pleat on one side is marked incorrectly on my copy (no small dots - only large). So minor, hardly worth mentioning though. I just followed the marks for the other one. Can't wait to make the jacket now! Oh, and I have the dress pattern pieces ready to fit. Such fun.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Martha, I missed that.

      I'm such a visual -- I must have just looked at the drawing and made my fold from the marks I'd made. Not everyone might do that and I will let the pattern company know.

      Glad you are having fun!

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  2. I have too many "necessaries" topping this in my cue, but my fingers are positively itching to get started on this! Luckily, I tried on someone's straight-out-of-the-envelope size 10, which was a perfect fit on me, so I already know I don't need to muslin!

    Love your comment "you have to be smart to sew." :D One of the many aspects of the sewing community I love so much - my sewing friends ARE smart!

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    Replies
    1. Sewers are really smart! Smart and courageous.

      Especially when struggling with trying to figure out how a pattern works when we don't understand it, can't figure it out and are extremely frustrated. And then finally figuring it out! Or not. Believe me, not everything I make works (more often than I might like to admit).

      It is a humbling, leveling and constant learning process this sewing business.

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  3. Thank you Katherine, I have this vest pattern set aside for warm weather. It has been fun to read about each sewer's experiences with this "puzzle" and I look forward to trying it. Beautiful vest and jacket.

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  4. Wow, this may be my favorite version of this vest so far. I love the effect of the discharging on the poplin!!!

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    Replies
    1. I love it when the creative spirit just takes over -- and even more when the inspiration works out!

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  5. Thanks so much for your helpful hints, Katherine! I just got this pattern and am itching to try it. Yes, it's interesting that sewing uses so many different high-level skills: hand-eye manipulation, spatial relations, puzzle solving, taking flat pieces to complex 3D shapes and more. We are amazing!

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  6. Absolutely! Sewists are brilliant in so many ways. I am constantly in awe of the creativity I get to see coming from others.

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  7. I made the vest up in a fulled wool...in my favorite color...black. I like it. Show the people the Enzo silk screen kit...just got mine today and will play when I can squeeze some time together.

    Have fun in Paris, Ladies

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  8. I too just bought this pattern.....yesterday!! So this post is timely. Love Tilton patterns!

    I agree about having to be smart to sew, BUT, would always encourage ANY wannabe sewists with the easier/basic patterns before letting them loose on more tricky types. I'd HATE anyone to be put off before they even get started. People have told me many many times that I can sew because I'm 'clever', but I refute that being the reason (and I firmly encourage them to sew too- it's not all anxiety and difficulties!). Teaching myself to sew 40+ years ago taught me many personal lessons, the main one being...patience(which wasn't my strong suit before!!).

    I just realised, about a year ago, that one of the main reasons I am passionate about sewing(apart from liking clothes in 'my' colours/styles/unique-ness etc etc),is that I liken sewing to solving a puzzle. That's exactly what garment construction is to me. LOVE it!!!Thank you,independent designers, for presenting us with more 'puzzles' to enjoy.

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  9. I just adore this vest/shirt/jacket. I have been haunting online fabric shops for perfect fabrics. I have a silk stripe from Marcy with BIG stripes in burgundy, copper, olive that is ready to hit the table. I love the lines in this pattern. Years ago I bought a sweatshirt sweater from you. I want you to know that I get compliments and oooohs and ahhhhs every time I wear it. And I will get those with these garments too! Thanks Katherine!

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  10. Love this version of the vest. When did you do the discharging? When the pieces were flat or after the vest was completed – or...?
    Barbara

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    Replies
    1. I've done discharge on two of these vests now.

      On the first one I discharged the fabric after it was cut and before it was stitched up. This meant that I had to handle the pieces very carefully when I washed the discharge out which you have to do once it's been ironed to set. I washed it by hand and line dried the pieces and then ironed them again. This was on a tightly woven linen and things came out fine.

      For the black Poplin vest shown above I discharged the fabric yardage, machine washed and dried it and then cut the pattern out. It was fun and challenging to place the pattern pieces over the discharged areas to use them to their best advantage.

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    2. Thanks Katharine. Would you ever print or discharge on a garment that had been fully constructed? Or is that just too hairy a concept? It sounds pretty hairy to do it in pieces, as in your first example. I also LOVED that version!
      Barbara

      PS Still waiting to hear about the screens for the calligraphy on the first version. Any action?

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    3. I have discharged on existing garments, it is just more complicated as you will want to put something under the piece so the discharge doesn't bleed thru the layers. Also it's more difficult to do a sample to see it you like the way it discharges.

      Screens used for first version are 'Enso' and a set of three sizes (S, M, L) has been created but not put up online on marcytilton.com as of this moment...

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    4. Merci. A bientot à Paris. (Couldn't find the circumflex!)
      Barbara

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  11. Even though I have a Long TO DO list, I think this vest pattern
    gets moved way up the list. Your blog answered some concerns I had. Also I ran across a piece in my stash that now has a purpose. Just have to clear the cutting area!
    Joanne B.

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