Paris délicieux

Had lunch today at Le Progress in Montmartre which is becoming one of my favorite Paris restaurants. This gorgeous salad (which I have already tasted at this point in the photo) is the best salad I have ever eaten (and I make some pretty great salads!). Thinly sliced tomatoes, spicy roquette, tangy feta, dressed with a fine balsamic vinegar and a pesto oil that moved the basil flavor subtly onto each leaf. Oh so very good!

While Marcy went looking for fabric I took the funicular up to Sacre Coeur to gaze over the city while it was still relatively clear. The skies were quite artistically cloudy
and still you could see quite a distance.

The area was jammed with people everywhere so the energy was lively and happy.

This talented man was doing amazing things with a ball while standing on a pillar about 3' x 3'. If he had fallen it would be down a steep hill or the stairs. He kept this elegant dance up for at least 20 minutes of grace and ended by walking the fence
and then climbing the light post, all the while keeping the ball spinning.

It was a solo Cirque de Soleil as he held his body out parallel to the ground.

Then there were the brides having their photos taken...

And the chestnut trees in bloom!

Au revoir à  Avril en Paris.

Katherine

Avril à Paris

Lilies-of-the-Valley brings happiness on May 1 for the French - according to the women we met in the market this morning while we were wallowing in the scent of some real ones. The history comes from Charles the first who decided to give them to the ladies of the court. This window display in one of our special dessert spots captures the joy inherent in one of my favorite flowers and I'd bet that chocolate cupcake tastes way better than dirt!

We encountered an ocean of shoes in the lower level of Galleries Layfette. One whole square block of nothing but shoes, each designer showcased in their little boutique. So many shoes, so few that could actually be worn if you wanted to be able to walk...

Our neighborhood hardware store carries everything you could ever need. Artfully arranged floor to ceiling, no space is left unused, even the door had this well balanced display of balls of string.

Plus à venir!
Katherine

Creative Spring - leap, jump, bound, vault, bounce, arise, emanate, sprout, surprise...

What an amazing season Spring is when she finally arrives. The sun likes to hide out in March providing an inner chill that feels colder than December. Then one day, after a grey heavy morning, the sun appears and clothing is shed piece by piece until I absolutely have to get the shoes off and the sandals on. Put the socks away and open the windows.

We leave for Paris tomorrow so it’s full-Tilton packing and getting organized today. The clothes are organized, some are in the suitcase and two pieces at the sewing machine.

Sometimes I notice my mind fretting about how I am going to come up with new ideas. What new thing could possibly be done with a t-shirt? Something always seems to show up but that never seems to help in the moment of fretting. Once I let go of that the ‘something’ always appears. In this case I got to experience, once again, that necessity really is the mother of invention.

I purchased a really nice turtleneck my last time in Paris. It perfectly matched a jacket I have but I rarely wore it. The jacket is the perfect weight for Paris in May the the shirt felt too wintery. Once I’d shortened the sleeves to 3/4, cut the neck down and removed the turtleneck it looked much better but now the length seemed too short. What to do?

I picked out the hems on shirt and sleeves with a seam ripper. I took the turtleneck apart and removed a small piece of elastic that was there to give it a nice scrunch. After pressing everything I cut the sleeve pieces into rectangles. Now I had 3 pieces that would go almost all the way around the bottom of the shirt. When I found a scrap of stripe that matched I knew I was good to go.

I stitched the short edges of the sleeve and turtleneck pieces closed, turned and pressed them. These three pieces along with two stripe scraps were arranged with edges overlapping around the lower edge of the shirt and basted down. After a final try on approval the seam is serged and voila a whole new look!

Jumpin' Creativity

This photo shows a small corner portion of the visual feast provided in the studio where I was lucky enough to stay this past weekend. Tucked into a lush garden by a creek I was in heaven.

Twelve amazing and creative women gathered for a 'Beyond The Arty T' workshop and played with fabric and paint for two full days. It was an extraordinary time of sharing, growing their work and laughing. They made jackets out of sweatshirts, turtlenecks, t-shirts and cashmere sweaters. They cut, painted and silk-screened up a storm. I demonstrated, showed images and clothing and was in awe of the fine work that came out of their hands.

Mary wore this comical version of Vogue 8748 with color blocking, 

which she scaled down for her petite frame.

Tamara tried her hand at 'watercolor' painting on her white T.

Pansies in full bloom share our creative spirit. What are you making today?

Katherine

Vogue 8793 ~ Version 1.3 & 1.4 ~ Spring Flow

To make this t-shirt for Spring I decided to lower the neck and shorten the sleeves to 3/4. Blue was the colorway of choice.


Blue Dot, version 1.3 I cut without making any actual notations on the pattern. The fabric I choose for the front had an amazing selvedge which I wanted to use. Loved the hand, it washed beautifully but ended up having no recovery. A challenge. By taping the zipper to the straight collar edge (using Wonder Tape which is double sided and washes away) before sewing I avoided major stitching and stretching problems there.


The third time was the charm with the front on this version. (Fortunately I stayed calm and went with the flow...)


The first front I cut was too short and the hem stretched horribly when I stitched it down even tho I had pressed it, fused it in place and used a walking foot. 


For the second try I cut the lower part of the original off and added a longer double layer with the fold at the hem for extra weight hoping to eliminate the stretching problem. No dice - still too short and the fabric stretched again (so much for knit finesse). Yikes.


The final solution was to use a different fabric that had more recovery and stability. The edge was left raw so stitching wouldn't be an issue. To deal with the slight roll on the edge I painted it. I used my favored 'Riffle' screen with black paint (hardly visible in the photo) which mimicked the stripe and 'Circle Game' for some white and blue textured orbs.

Blue Dot 1.3

Blue Dot 1.3 Collar

Water for Chocolate 1.4 Collar

Water for Chocolate 1.4

Pattern Changes

Water for Chocolate, version 1.4 was a piece of cake. This time I made a new pattern piece, lowered the neck 2-1/2", added a 1" dart (which admittedly had to be moved three times), lowered the hem 1" at the side and 2" in the front.


There was a lot to learn making these two t-shirts. Primarily that it is easier to problem solve a solution that to beat myself up for not getting it right the first time. I like version 1.3 better than the other two. A curve happened when I sewed the seam and it softens the line across the front. The black paint works when I wear it with black jeans. 


To make it work the first time the next time I choose a fabric like this I will cut the piece double, with darts and more length. But then I rarely like to do the same thing twice...


Namaste,
Katherine

Ties That Bind

A dear friend that I've known since high school lost her husband last summer.

Jim was a full-living, vibrant, dapper, outgoing, friendly, funny, story-telling man who loved to laugh and made friends with everyone he met.  They were together for over 40 years.  The love of her life, he finally proposed 6 months before he died.  He was afraid she would say 'no'.

Jim had a vast collection of ties (among other things). One day before the funeral Anna Marie brought a stack of them into the living room, draped them over the couch and asked me to make something for her using them.  I collected a grouping of what appealed to me and shipped them off to my Oregon studio.  

And there they sat.  

And sat.  

And sat.  

Inspiration was not quickly forthcoming.  I found myself moving them around; setting them on various surfaces while waiting for the tie muse to appear.  Eventually she did.

I had a vision of a scarf made with strips of bias silk that would be cut from the ties. Soft, colorful, fluid, simple.  Something to wrap around Anna Marie's neck just like the ties were worn by Jim.  

The reality of stitching a project like this is always more complicated that it appears (in my visions anyway).  

The ties were shipped back to Minnesota so I could create the scarf during my Christmastime visit. Spread all over my daughter's dining room table, I cut the strips on a small mat with a rotary cutter, piled the strips randomly next to the machine and stitched away.

I decided on no backing or lining as I wanted the fluidity - which I got - but that created new problems to solve. The silks and other fabrics all reacted to stitching differently. Some stretched more on the bias than others; they were different weights and textures. I wanted the strips to be varying widths and ended up adding seams to some of the widest. I'd planned to leave the long side edges unfinished but folding the edge over once and stitching it down added just the right bit of weight. Lucky I'd cut the strips wider than I'd thought I needed. The seams were randomly exposed to both sides so it is always right side out. Lack of perfection becomes perfect.

Soft, fluid and colorful - just what I imagined.

 

Anna Marie and I met for lunch right before Christmas. A great time to give her my gift. If I entertained thoughts of  whether she'd 'like it' or whether it was 'good enough' (always comes up) I didn't have to. I received what was for me a perfect response - she burst into tears. 


I don't think she's taken it off since.

Love.

Katherine

Tips for the New Zip Neck T - Vogue 8793

Once a pattern is released I always want to make another version!  I have one in grey/black (of course) and after I post this I'm on my way out to the ArtBarn to shop for some colorful fabric for Spring. This is the perfect shirt for using one of Marcy's Cool Combos or creating one of your own.

Plastic zippers are a good option as they are softer and lighter than metal. Ghee's has a great variety of beautiful zippers by the piece and by the yard available.  www.ghees.com

Combine lighter weight nets (sleeve, back and collar) 

and more stable jerseys (front, sleeve, cuff and collar).

When combining zippers cut out the teeth on 1/4" of one end. Seal with Fray Check.

Then overlap the edges and stitch together.

Sew zipper on to the straight edge (for some reason I always want to attach it to the curved edge).

If the zipper slips while stitching fuse it to the fabric.
Note how the zipper foot sits right on the edge of the zipper while stitching.

Arranging and basting the collar together before attaching it to the shirt is key.

The two collar pieces nest into one another creating a soft visual at the neck.

For Spring I am enlarging the neckline and using 3/4 sleeves. 
I'll post a photo when I complete it.


Off to go fabric shopping now!

Tilton Family Dip

The Basic Ingredients

I made my first batch of the Tilton Dip in the ’50’s. Found the original recipe on the back of an Old Dutch potato chip box. I can still see the box sitting on the red counter in the back pantry. I decided to make some as an appetizer for my parents and their friends. 

My dad travelled during the week and when he returned home on Friday night, he and my mother would usually go out to dinner (what a civilized idea). Friends would come over to our house for a drink and snack before going to the restaurant. The dip was a hit that first night and it’s been a hit ever since.

The original recipe has disappeared and the ingredients morphed over the years depending on who makes it but that’s what keeps it interesting. 

For Christmas this year I used 3-1/2# of cream cheese for the main batch and 2 tubs of Tofutti’s ‘better than cream cheese’ for the non-dairy folks and it was all gone by the 26th. Much of it on my hips I must admit for I still love the stuff.

It’s delicious with potato chips or pretzels of course (nothing like a little fat and grease for flavor) but also perfect with crudities of vegetables for the health conscious.

Basic ingredients are:
Cream Cheese, Neufchatel or Tofutti
Ketchup and/or Western dressing and/or Heinz Chili Sauce (I usually just use Ketchup)
Garlic salt
Finely chopped onions

Optional:
Chives
Parsley
Sun dried tomatoes (this makes it a little more 21st century)
Milk (if you want a thinner mixture)

Putting it together:
Soften the cream cheese (or substitute) in a bowl.  Add ketchup to taste (about 1/2 cup to start).  Add garlic salt to taste (maybe 1/3 t to start). Add chopped onions (about 1/2 cup).  Mix it all up and adjust flavors to your liking. This can be done with an electric mixer or by hand using a ‘Granny Fork’.  I prefer the ‘Granny Fork’ because I like to leave some lumps in the mix. Chives and parsley add a nice hit of color and taste.

When using sun dried tomatoes wait to add the ketchup. Soften the tomatoes in some warm water and chop into smallish pieces. Add the tomatoes and some of the water to the cream cheese. The tomato water adds color and flavor so you can use less ketchup or none at all.  I love this option but some of the family are purists so I save this for smaller groups.

Hope you enjoy making and eating this old family recipe!  Happy New Year!
Katherine

Paris Glorious

Paris is loved for many things but November weather is not usually included.  This November however has provided one glorious day after another.  This Sunday in Paris I walked about the markets without a jacket or sweater on. Adventure and irony.  Even the fish dress up!

Fashionable Fish

Flea Market Sartorialist

Mr. Lapin and Friends.

What Happened to Mr. Lapin

Chanel Steel-toed Workboots

A bientot,
Katherine

Paris Gris

Paris continues to offer up the unexpected, the bizarre and the beautiful. Even the grey days are glamorous.

Saturday we stopped by the newest Hermes store which is housed in an old swimming pool.  You enter into a long narrow space with a gallery display on one side and a flower shop on the other.  Every plant and stem is carefully chosen, arranged and stunning.  As is everything in the place. The makers at Hermes are master craftspeople; every piece provides an example of the best skill. The flowers were the only thing that might fit into my financial plan but they are hard to stuff into a suitcase.

The precise entry draws you into a massive opening where the undulating stair rails draw you to descend into a sculptural womb-like wooden fantasy where goods are displayed as if in a museum. Clothing, home furnishings and saddlery all share this vast gorgeous space.

I'm always curious to see who is sitting (or napping) in the lounge at the top of the first floor escalator at the Bon Marche.  This elderly gentleman, dressed in his Sunday best, came prepared for his shopping respite.

Just in case you need an idea for a new holiday decoration, consider fake fur Christmas trees.  If these are too subtle there are so many possible choices of color and texture available in faux fur these days...

Marcy and Martine in the subway at Arts et Metiers. It was a great pleasure to turn the corner and emerge into this gleaming subway waiting area - like being inside a big copper machine.

 

At Pere Lachaise the marvelous sepulchres, gravestones and tight layout reminisce the city that surround it. A beautiful spot to meander on a Sunday afternoon. 

After all that death we attended Olivier Giraud's amuse a minute one-man show 'How to Become a Parisian in One Hour'. Nothing like lots of laughter to bring things back to life.

Today is another day...

A bientot,

Katherine

Heaven in Paris

Started wandering today through the Palais Royale where the perfect Paris day shone full on all the visitors to that magical park.

 Visited Heaven in Paris, a store where owner-designer-pattern-maker-stitcher, the obviously very multi-talented Lea-Anne Wallis, presides.  Lea-Anne is a transplanted Brit whose impeccable sewing skills are enhanced with a great sense of style, texture and color. She has a cool dog named Frisbee too!  The delicate and sophisticated jewelry that compliments her beautiful clothing is made by her husband.  Shhh, I found a darling necklace (requested by my granddaughter Charlotte) that is perfect!

Meandered the Marais in the afternoon and watched the sunset tint the clouds cotton candy pink and the evening sky turn lavender.  Perfect weather in Paris where it's predicted to rain for the next few days, so I really enjoyed every minute of wandering dry streets sans tangling umbrellas with the masses - that was last night.

Happy to be in my jammies now ready to climb into bed.  Tomorrow is another day of adventure...

A bientot,
Katherine

Surface Design Fun in Minneapolis!

The term 'surface design' covers anything you can do to the surface of fabric - dyeing, painting, stamping, adding color, removing color, sewing on, cutting away, stitching on, over or under, shredding, pleating, lacing or whatever else you can think of.  I'm sure I forgot something but whatever you're doing it's bound to be fun.

'Confluence', the biennial Surface Design Association's conference held in Minneapolis last weekend was (naturally) over the top!  I organized the Vendor Fair/Marketplace area and was blown away by the talented artists creating stunning hand-made textiles and the variety of tools and supplies available to everyday creatives as well as professionals.  Inspiration, conversation, wonder, curiosity, beauty and learning abounded as did totally cool people from all over the world.

A 7-minute hand-dyed scarf I created in Marlene Glickman's booth.

 

 

 

 

John Marshall's Gorgeous Kimonos

I especially loved listening to India Flint and Natalie Chanin, both down-to-earth but juicy entrepreneurs, authors, teachers and creators, doing vastly different work, who shared everything they could about their unique businesses and ways of working. 

India Flint unwrapped a dyed bundle at the end of her lecture that she created out of fabric she'd purchased at the Vendor Fair/Marketplace, dyed with natural materials she'd picked up on the way to dinner and set in the hotel bathroom!  It was gorgeous.

Natalie Chanin led a one day workshop on her applique and reverse applique techniques that I participated in.  Simple hand stitching techniques enhanced with a wealth of information on how she runs her business. The perfect ending to a fabulous weekend. Here's a photo of her hands at work.

Natalie's Hands

I started an organic cotton pillow cover which may take me years to finish depending on how many Netflix I can stitch through.  But I find hand-sewing to be such a relaxing experience that I may have completed in no time...

Hope you are having a fabulous day!

Katherine